Wandering Gringo: The Road to Santa Marta

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While I was away from Bogotá and the blog, I had the happy opportunity to hit the road and drive from Bucaramanga to Santa Marta on the Atlantic coast on Colombia's Highway 45.

Not unlike the ride from Bogotá, the going is slow, however, this time I was able to sit back and admire the scenic Colombian country side. Heading North out of Bucaramanga, I was struck at how quickly the urban landscape gave way to pure, cattle spotted countryside. The terrain immediately outside of the city is still mountainous, providing a roller-coaster like ride zipping from vista to vista of small farms nestled in the steep valleys.

After about an hour and a half, you come down out of the cordillera onto a seemingly endless plan. The altitude change is made inescapably clear by the big jump in the temperature from about 75 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Initially, the land appeared to be mostly used for grazing cattle, however, as we proceeded further North into the department of Cesar, we entered a large oil palm plantation. I'm told there are tens of thousands of hectares of oil palm being grown in this region. Colombia is the fifth largest producer of palm oil in the world and the department of Cesar is the number two palm oil producing department in the country.

Indeed, oil palm is being touted by the government as a sustainable alternative to coca cultivation - one that could even be used to produce biofuels. However, several human rights organizations have said this economic lure has led paramilitary groups and businesses to displace and/or prevent the return of people living on potentially productive palm oil land in the Northwest section of the country (see BBC report on this issue.)

Shortly after passing through the palm plantation, I encountered another unfortunate obstacle to swift passage along the highway: el trancón or traffic jam. This particular traffic jam was caused by a group of motorcyclists who were holding up traffic as a means of protesting the recent traffic related deaths of two fellow cyclists (the police we spoke to said they were drunk at the time).

Trucks and vacationers headed to and from the coast were backed up for a dozen or more kilometers in each direction.


We were stopped for more than two hours, but luckily we had beer.


And others had hammocks.


In addition to agribusiness and moto-protests, we passed through a dozen or more small towns. Unlike the highways in the U.S. that bypass every town, Highway 45 in Colombia passes right through the middle of each town, forcing drivers to slow down with speed bumps. And at every speed bump, there is someone looking to sell you something - fried pork skin, bottled water, ice cream.

Indeed, in many of these towns the economic outlook is very bleak and the holiday traffic provides a much needed source of income. Cinder-block houses with dirt floors and thatched roofs were a common sight. A far cry from the modern shopping malls filled with luxury goods on the north side of Bogotá.