Getting Around: The Bus

For my first installment on getting around Bogotá, I've decided to tackle the most frequently used (and most fearsome) mode of transportation: the bus. In my opinion, this absolutely has to be number one on the 'things-that-are-different-about-Bogotá' list.

The bus system consists entirely of privately owned and operated buses. These machines come in every conceivable make and model, from modern to medieval, but all have one thing in common: heavy diesel exhaust. For me, this is probably one of the things I noticed first about the city. Every busy street is consumed by a cloud of particulate matter (look no further than the inside of your nose for proof).

During the day, major thoroughfares are clogged with, in my estimation, 50-75% bus traffic. To the novice rider, such as myself, the chaos is daunting (I've only recently worked up the courage to ride the buses on my own).

In addition to the sheer volume, knowing which bus to take is equally overwhelming. The routes are indicated on nearly imperceptible signs placed in the windshield. While I'm told some numbering system for these routes exists, I have yet to meet a local who can explain it to me. Instead, one must rely on the street names and neighborhoods listed on the signs.

All of this takes place in the context of no actual bus stops. Potential passengers must take it upon themselves to locate the proper bus and simultaneously attract the attention of the driver. Didn't get their attention? No worries, another bus will be along in about five seconds. This is where the density and organic nature of the system is at its best. During peak hours, it seems a seasoned rider can catch a bus from anywhere to anywhere in less than five minutes.

Ok so you've located the right bus and flagged it down. Here comes the fun part:

Stepping on-board you are confronted with your first obstacle, a turnstile (what you thought you could just walk on??) Before you have time to pass through, and while the door is still open behind you (they never close), the driver hits the gas and starts shifting gears (all the buses are manual transmission). Hold on tight because I've heard people have been tossed off and even killed by the combination of open doors and grinding gears. But hey, if the driver can shift gears, make change for your fare, and keep an eye out for more passengers all at the same time...you should be able to pay and go through the turnstile without falling out onto the street. If multi-tasking isn't your thing, take a cab.

If you happen to be on a bus with an open seat, good luck if you are over six feet tall. The seats are cramped to say the least.

Once you are settled, its time for the on-board entertainment. On the bus I rode yesterday, I was entertained by a women selling incense, a man selling colored pencils, and two clowns - each with a well rehearsed, non-stop monolouge (that I guess was funny since I couldn't understand what was said but everyone was laughing).

As noted above, there are virtually no bus stops. So when its time to go, you just have to hit the stop button and the driver will let you off whereever you want.

All of this for about 60-70 cents.

While the private system has its perks in terms of convience, the jobs it provides, and its colorful character, I have to say I prefer the publicly owned and operated bus system I left behind in Chicago - if only for the lame reasons of saftey and pollution control.

I've asked some friends about this and apparently policy makers in Bogotá feel the same. However, the bus operators are extremly well organized and capable of holding the city hostage by striking and blocking the streets. I am told this is the biggest obstacle towards reforming the system.

So for now, get your pesos ready and hold on tight.